Far out, where the roads turn from pavement to gravel and the sky turns from gray to blue, there are fields of rubies. Red, sweet, delicious rubies, ready for picking. Ready for eating. Ready for savoring. Be in wonder of the bounty. Be in wonder of the beauty.
After spending two days at the Kilpatrick Family Farm in Middle Granville, NY this past April, I was able to head south to Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture. For most young farmers—especially those of the “organic,” “locavore,” and “sustainable” persuasion—a trip to Stone Barns Center is kind of like a trip to Disneyworld is for a child, filled with inspiring wonder and magic, a place you dream about not only visiting but also experiencing.
Stone Barns Center is a walking exhibit of how the entire farm-to-table concept can work in real life. Situated in the Hudson Valley just north of New York City, the center farms six acres of vegetables plus over 22,000 square feet of four-season greenhouse space. A number of animals also contribute to Stone Barns’ ecosystem, with cattle, pigs, sheep, bees and chickens all represented. Everything grown and raised at Stone Barns Center is used in their very own restaurant and cafe or sold at local markets. It truly is a triumphant demonstration in how a farm focused on growing and using local, can be a successful business enterprise.
But above all, Stone Barns Center is about education and their success at drawing families and individuals out of their city dwellings to experience the “great outdoors” was obvious the day I visited. In a very honest, down-to-earth way, Stone Barns Center is not unlike many of the farm education “centers” available to families across the country. I was reminded of how Cosley Zoo in my hometown of Wheaton, IL provides the same educational opportunities to Chicago suburban families through programs like “Morning Chores” where kids can see what its like to care for and feed farm animals. Just 26 miles from me and in downtown Chicago, Lincoln Park Zoo’s Farm-in-the-Zoo exhibit allows kids to “experience hands-on lessons on the origins of food.” Take an entirely different demographic in the farm-state of Ohio, and there is Young’s Jersey Dairy in Yellow Springs where families can spend a day feeding goats, petting baby calves and learning how milk turns into ice cream. All of these are examples of the ongoing efforts to educate the public about agriculture, each catering to their unique, local audience.
Stone Barns Center has over 22,000 square feet of greenhouse space that allow for four-season growing. The greenhouses use minimal heating, even in the coldest of winter months.
No pesticides, herbicides or chemical additives are introduced to the soil at Stone Barns Center. Instead, the farmers rely on compost created created from Stone Barns’ natural agriculture waste products and other natural elements like grass clippings and leaves.
Over 200 varieties of produce are grown year-round at Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture. Click here to read about Claytonia, a plant often eaten raw in salads.
The greenhouse roof can be raised and lowered to make maximum use of the the sun and wind.
Stella, a Great Pyrenees, keeps guard over the sheep.
You won’t see any traditional “red barns” at Stone Barns Center. Instead, these modern hoop buildings house the various types livestock.
The actual “stone” at Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture where both the restaurant Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and the cafe are located as well as the administrative offices and classroom/event space.
A great deal has happened—more personally than professionally, I suppose—since the last post. To start with, I had the chance to photograph a great farm-and-food related event in Kansas City this past August.
I was thrilled to be part of such a great event that aspires to educate the local community about the importance of eating healthy, local foods. Farmers from the surrounding area contributed all of the food for the event dinner and local celebrity chefs prepared the fantastic feast. Perhaps best of all, the event took place at an über unique and trendy venue—the 12th St. Bridge in the West Bottoms.
Each year, proceeds from the event go to local not-for-profits working for local, healthier eating. This year’s beneficiaries included Greater Kansas City Food Policy Coalition, The Dream Factory of Greater Kansas City, and The Food Conservancy.
If you live in the KC area, be sure to check out this event for next year. It’s well worth your support!
A couple Saturdays ago, I made my way out to Primrose Farm to observe a traditional hog butchering. Gruesome? Yes. Interesting? Very. I came away with a great deal of fascinating information and a better understanding (and appreciation) for the just how food gets from the farm to the table.
A SHORT HISTORY
Pigs (Sus scrofa) originate from Asia, also where the earliest efforts of hog domestication can be found. The pig’s short gestation period (only four months) and high yield of offspring at one time (a sow can produce upwards of 12 pigs in one litter) made the animal a profitable and reliable one for producers. Pigs arrived in America as early as 1539 when early explorers arrived from Europe and quickly flourished amongst the rich vegetation of the new land. Skipping several hundred years ahead,* the pig remains a core component of the American diet because of the pig’s ability to quickly convert corn into meat. In many ways, the American pork industry is tied to America’s love affair with corn, the consumption of which is a topic of recent discussion/debate.
PIG BUTCHERING 101
Ideal butcher weight is around 220 pounds—a weight the pig will reach six months after its born, although the subject hog at Primrose Farm weighed in at a very hearty 600+ pounds. For all intensive purposes, the weight of the pig does not necessarily affect the quality of the pork. The 220 pound guideline developed more out of practicality than anything else. For starters, any larger than 220 pounds, and the pig can become too large for a single butcher to handle. Secondly, the pig reaches this weight approximately six months after birth, accounting for the time between the spring birth of the piglets to the November butchering time.
Butchering on an Illinois farm in the 1930s typically occurred in late November and early December on days during which the temperature did not get below freezing or above 40°F. After scalding and removing of the “awful” (the intestines, organs, etc.) the pig hangs overnight. If it freezes in the night, the meat can be difficult to cut. If the meat gets too warm, cutting a clean, even slice through the flesh can be equally difficult. Seeing as how this temperature range occurs at the end of November through the early parts of December, hog butchering quickly became associated with Christmas and, no doubt, contributes to American’s idea of ham as a traditional yuletide meal.
To actually kill the hog, the butcher marks an X on the back of the hog’s head, behind the eyes and in the middle of the two ears. Shooting the pig just to the right (or left) of the X will immediately kill the pig’s brain. The hog is immediately hung upside-down, held by a pully system attached to a wooden bar that is forced into the heel tendons of the pig for support. As she hangs upside down, the heart continues to pump for a few minutes, draining the blood from the animal. This process is called bleeding the animal and is important to prevent the blood from coagulating in the meat, thereby producing cleaner pork. Some farmers (the wives, really) collected the blood to make blood sausage. With a pig the size of the one at Primrose Farm, there was significantly more blood than could ever be consumed in its short shelf-life
After five minutes or less of bleeding, the pig is ready to be scalded. Scalding is the process of removing the hair and the first layer of skin. A large vat of hot water (not boiling, but in the words of Kirk at Primrose, “hot coffee temperature”) is used to dip the pig. After each dipping, a dull knife is used to scrape the hair from the carcass. In the 1930s, this hair was often collected and used for toothbrushes and other similar household items on the farm. The first layer of the skin is also scraped from the carcass, revealing the white under-layer. Due to the large size of the pig at Primrose, scalding took a great deal longer than it would on a typical butcher-size pig.
After the scalding and scraping, the next step is to remove the head. There is nothing high-tech or fancy about this part, as it simply involves a sharp knife and a bit of “umph”. Cutting from the base of the neck around to the front, the butcher twists the neck until the bone breaks. using an ax on the bone can help created a cleaner break. The head is immediately put in a bucket and will be further disassembled for it’s various parts. One of the easiest food items to make from the head is headcheese, which is literally boiling the entire head in a pot. Once boiled, the natural collagen from the head acts as a gelatin to mold everything together. Alternatively, the butcher could set aside the jowls for jowl-bacon, as well as the tongue as another source of meat. The eyes are not used, and if boiled as part of the head, simply rise to the top of the pot and dissolve.
With the head removed, the butcher can now open the carcass to remove the insides, also called the “awful”. A sharp knife is used to cut a shallow trail from the tail all the way down to the breastbone. The butcher then takes an ax to break through the pelvic bone before cutting all the way through the skin down to the neck. With the pelvis broken, the ends of the intestines can be tied close and slowly removed from the inside. As the intestines are removed, the other organs will follow; everything is collected in a large pail and saved for various uses. Most notably, the intestines are painstakingly made into sausage casing—a process that involves turning the entire intestine inside out cleaning off the lard as you go.
At this point, the farmer could continue with the job of cutting the actual meat of the carcass or simply sell the carcass to a third party who could continue the job. If selling the carcass, the butcher leaves both kidneys intact, as this allows the third party to verify the animal was diseased in anyway.
At Primrose Farm, the butchering event took place over two days, the first being the scalding and cleaning portion, the second day being the meat-cutting day. I chose not to attend the second day, mostly to avoid becoming a vegetarian from too much “exposure to reality”. Maybe next year I’ll have more guts (pun intended). In the meantime, you can hop on over to this article (black and white images included) to learn all about the meat-cutting process.
*Additional articles on the history of pork can be found here and here.
Editor’s Note (added January 24, 2012): To learn more about the history and process of pig butchering, check out this article on NPR about artisan butcher, Andrew Plotsky. Be sure to watch the video for an up-close-and-personal encounter!